Creatures tend to creep into jewelry somewhat regularly. Butterflies, serpents, and starfish, for example, are staples in fine jewelry design. But this season brings us a stampede of equine motifs—from fiery, diamond-encrusted steeds to gentle unicorns and magical pegasus.
And you don’t have to be an equestrian—or even a daydreamer (or a student of French Medieval tapestries) to fall under the spell of horse and unicorn jewelry.
What’s prompted their appearance in quite a few jewelry collections? Many jewelry experts would point to a sweeping “Cowboy Core” trend, which developed in part as a response to the debut of Beyonce’s groundbreaking, cross-cultural Cowboy Carter album (now doubly famous for being snubbed by the CMAs). To put a bow on it all, the jewelry designer Jean Dousset recently debuted a ring for Mrs. Carter herself, complete with a diamond custom-cut into a horse-head shape (yes, really!).
Some trend-watchers also point to the popularity of the Netflix show Yellowstone, which is a modern-day (and much darker-feeling) Dallas set in Big Sky country. And let’s not forget the legions of Taylor Swift fans dressed in cowboy boots and hats for her Eras tour performances.
As for unicorns, the appeal might be personal. According to this Vox article, a general trend towards the mythical fairy-tale creature probably began to emerge around 2017. The article's author connects it to aging Millennials feeling nostalgic for their childhoods—an era of rainbow-hued My Little Pony playthings, Lisa Frank stickers, and shimmering eye shadow palettes. All of this dovetails with the resurgence of 1990s and Y2K fashion and perhaps the turbulent geopolitical landscape in America and beyond.
In other words, unicorns are comforting reminders of the caprice of youth: lacy canopy beds, conversation hearts, and cheekbones agleam with a holographic highlighter that instantly transformed you into a wood nymph.
Are you Team Unicorn or Team Horse? Wherever you land, jewels that center these beasts—one powerful, two magical—are a leap towards something hopeful and happy. You’ll know it when you see it.
Products in this story
Cicada; Cece; Anita Ko; Karina Brez; Lionheart; Irene Neuwirth; David Yurman; Gurhan; Aurelia Demark; The Fete; Retrouvai; Jacquie Aiche; Harwell Godfrey
Top: Wild Horse ring in 18k gold, enamel and diamonds, $4,487, Cece Jewellery
