A little-known fact of watchmaking history is that before the wristwatch came of age on the World War I battlefield, it was an accessory for well-to-do women, delicate and bejeweled.
That history has come roaring back into fashion lately as jewelry watches for both women and men take fashion’s center stage (with the guys quickly making up for lost time).
The Met Gala earlier this month was a proving ground. Between Usher in a Jacob & Co. Billionaire III watch studded with 147.65 carats of emerald- and baguette-cut rubies (see below), Steven Yeun in a Cartier Clash [Un]limited watch lined with 18k yellow and purple gold spheres, Jeff Goldblum in a Tiffany & Co. cocktail watch, Lil Nas X in a white gold Piaget watch and Barry Keoghan in a diamond-accented De Ville Prestige by Omega, bejeweled timepieces were de riguer for the evening’s leading men.

Jacob & Co. 'Billionaire III' ruby-covered watch
But as the range of models described above shows, there is no one way to define a jewelry watch. Below, we outline a few broad categories.
High Jewelry Watches
The most dazzling (and expensive) jewelry watches (i.e., those in which diamonds and/or colored stones seem to cover almost every available surface) are typically made by watchmakers that trace their heritage to jewelry houses, or brands that have become specialists in jewelry over the decades, including, most notably, Cartier, Chopard, Chanel, Bulgari, Piaget and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Chopard haute joallerie diamond watch

Cartier diamond crocodile watch
In many instances, designers are given carte blanche to create high jewelry pieces, from dramatic sautoirs to diamond-encrusted panthers and crocodiles (here’s looking at you, Cartier), in which timekeeping is incidental. Secret watches, or timepieces featuring a hidden dial that can be opened by pressing or pulling on a concealed element, are a big part of this watch tradition.

Chanel 'Bobine' high jewelry cuff
Consider the Bobine high jewelry cuff that Chanel introduced at Watches and Wonders Geneva in April (top and above). Inspired by a humble spool of thread, the 18k gold cuff is a luxe secret watch hidden behind a 17.51-carat emerald-cut yellow sapphire. Crisscrossed with more than 33 carats of brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds, the pièce unique threads the needle between high jewelry, haute couture and watchmaking in spectacular fashion.
Bejeweled Timepieces
Most people, however, prefer a more functional approach in which the piece’s timekeeping abilities are at least as important as its bling factor. Van Cleef & Arpels has created a whole category around this concept. Dubbed “poetic complications,” the timepieces that belong to this tradition feature mechanical movements designed to tell a romantic story on the dial, with colored stones and diamonds serving as aesthetic accents that help further the narrative.

Van Cleef & Arpels 'Lady Arpels Brise'

Van Cleef & Arpels 'Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté'
Take the Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté watch that Van Cleef (above) introduced at Watches and Wonders this year. On the dial, a fairy in silhouette picks flowers in the light of the morning sun, as golden rays pass through leaves of white gold, plique-à-jour enamel and diamonds. A field of three-dimensional flowers made using a new enamel technique known as façonné — introduced by the maison in April — glow in the light, their stamens set with sparkling yellow sapphires.
Not all timepieces, however, are this rarefied. Many jewelry watches are simple dress styles adorned with a tasteful smattering of diamonds. The restored 1970s Rolex Cellini watches in designer Jade Trau’s capsule collection are a perfect example. Although she’s best known for her luxe diamond jewels, the capsule, as she explains on her website, was born from her “love of ladies watches and the inherent connection between fine jewelry and timepieces.”

One of Jade Trau's re-imagined vintage Rolex 'Cellini'' watches
Gem-Set Sport Watches
Of all the types of jewelry watch, the most popular may be iconic sports models — like the Rolex Daytona or the Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet — that have been tricked out with precious stones, either at the factory or by independent customizers.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona
Watches and Wonders was positively awash in them. Consider the new Rolex Cosmograph Daytona featuring a bezel lined with 36 round brilliant diamonds, or the new Alpine Eagle 41 XP Frozen Summit from Chopard, whose 41 mm case, dial, bezel, crown and integrated bracelet are crafted from ethical 18k white gold fully set with diamonds. And don’t overlook the blinded-by-the-white Piaget Polo 79 set entirely with diamonds, a fitting introduction for 2024, the maison’s 150th anniversary year.

Audemars Piguet gem-set self-winding 'Royal Oak'

Chopard 'Alpine Eagle 41 XP Frozen Summit'
Lest, however, you think jewelry watches are restricted to using diamonds, a new 37 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding model introduced in March will set you straight. Encased in 18k pink gold, the $65,900 gem-set beauty features brilliant-cut diamonds on the case and studs, and blue sapphires in a graduated range of hues on the bezel, all complemented by a Grande Tapisserie dial in a light blue hue that matches the pearly alligator strap.
If all of this strikes you as delightful, but maddeningly unobtainable, take solace in a cheap and cheerful version of the concept exemplified by Timex’s two-year-old collaboration with Beverly Hills jeweler Jacquie Aiche.
The ongoing partnership, now 23 timepieces strong, includes pieces like the new Soulmate, whose elegant black mother-of-pearl dial is adorned with a black heart at its center, itself a canvas for Aiche’s signature tribe eye motif. Faceted crystal hour markers evoke the sparkle of diamonds, while a chic two-tone stainless-steel case and bracelet are perfect examples of the trending bi-metal look.

Timex X Jacquie Aiche watch
Best of all, the watches will set you back $375. For a tasteful fine jewelry-adjacent timepiece, what more could you ask for?