Adam Neeley, a contemporary fine jeweler based in Laguna Beach, Calif., has the Pacific ocean and majestic cliffs in his periphery, but a recent trip to Santorini and Mykonos—the crown jewels of the Cyclades, a chain of Greek islands that dot the Aegean Sea—left him completely enchanted. “I was captivated right from the start,” he says. “The deep blue of the Mediterranean, the rugged beauty of the islands, the stunning sunsets, and the warmth of the people were just too inspiring to resist.”
Scenes from a Greek odyssey, captured by Neeley himself. On this trip, the itinerary included “the mythical island of Santorini with its iconic blue domes and white cave houses clinging to the caldera. Then we let loose in Mykonos, the ultimate spot for partying, tanning, sipping espresso martinis, and just enjoying life.”
If you’ve seen it, you know: There is no blue hue quite like that of the glorious waters of the Mediterranean. And few minds work the way Neeley’s does, in that he designs in a kind of dream state. And when he awakens, he has the piece "perfectly imagined in my head like it’s already done,” he told the New York Times earlier this year.
Neeley has been likened to a next-generation JAR (Joel Arthur Rubenstein, an American jeweler whose creations were celebrated in a 2013 exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art). On a purely technical level, many gem and pearl suppliers know Neeley as a “jewelry wizard” because he has a knack for selecting gems with a certain magical quality, whether it’s a raspberry-hued Mahenge garnet or a moonstone that has such a nuanced, variegated hue that the gem presents as something deliciously unusual (and unspeakably luxurious).
The designer also specializes in custom-developed alloys, including SpectraGold, which consists of seven alloys, each a different color, that collectively create an ombré effect.
Both of these signatures are represented in Cyclades, a luminous grouping of one-of-a-kind jewels borne from inspirations gleaned while on his Greek Island getaway. “The ideas just kept flowing, even after I got back home—proving that vacation souvenirs can be more than just fridge magnets,” says Neeley. “I couldn’t help but gather some of that Cyclades magic into my jewelry.”
Tonna Galea earrings with diamonds in SpectraGold and 14k white gold, $98,000
Athena ring with moonstone and yellow and white diamonds in SpectraGold and 14k white gold, $56,000
Melissani ring with indicolite tourmaline and diamonds in SpectraGold and 14k white gold, $79,000. “One of my favorite memories is jumping into the sea from a boat we chartered and seeing the amazing deep blues/green of the Aegean,” recalls Neeley. “Indicolite tourmaline reflects these rich aquatic tones perfectly and I have an ongoing request from [lapidary artist] Stephen Avery for these rare beauties. He cut this particular stone in his signature ‘diamondback cut’ and I fell in love with it immediately. We even custom cut the side diamonds to echo the elongated diamond shaped facets on the top of the tourmaline.”
Edessa earrings with pearls and aquamarines in SpectraGold and 14k white gold, $89,000. “These aqua tassels are a nod to the mesmerizing waterfalls I’ve discovered during my travels over several years,” explains Neeley. “The cascading ombré blue tones immediately reminded me of Edessa, Greece’s largest waterfall—turning these designs into wearable pieces of paradise.”
Thalassia necklace with aquamarines and diamonds in yellow and white diamonds in SpectraGold and 14k white gold, $98,500
Avalon ring with South Sea pearl and yellow and white diamonds in SpectraGold and 14k white gold, $59,000. “I’ve always been fascinated by shells and brought home several interesting Mediterranean species,” Neeley says. “Back at the studio, I cut the shells open at different angles to reveal the beautiful curving geometries.”