When California-based jewelry designer Jonne Amaya returned to her native Mexico to learn the craft of jewelry making, both of her grandmothers gave her jewelry pieces from their personal collections to rework during her education. 

So when Amaya, who was born in Mexico City but grew up in California, launched her eponymous collection, she was most interested in repurposing existing jewelry and working one-on-one with clients on custom pieces. Since then, her scope of work has widened, and she recently dropped her first proper collection — a cache of gleaming gold-and-gemstone pieces that feel tailor made for the fashion-conscious client.

Jewelry designer Jonne Amaya

Jonne Amaya 14k gold and diamond rings (settings start at $2,500)

Eccentrically entitled Walk the Chapel or Elope, the series focuses on engagement rings that are bold in size, but feature scads of artful details such as scalloping, stepped bezels and switchback lines.  

We caught up with Amaya, a definite designer on the rise, on her inspirations and beginnings as a jewelry designer and bench artist. 

Gem + Jewel: What initially drew you to jewelry?

Jonne Amaya: I've been drawn to jewelry since as far as I could remember. I would watch QVC as a kid often. At one point, I asked my mom to call in and order a pair of ruby studs, just so that I could see them in real life. I have a handful of memories like this from my childhood. At this point in my life, it really surprises me how clear my future path was [at such a young age]. 

What, in your opinion, makes jewelry education in Mexico so wonderful? 

In Mexico all art studies are much more hands-on. There isn't time spent on theory, and instead its hands-on from day one. For someone like me, who doesn't like baby steps, this was beyond valuable.

Rainbow Baby Dangle 14k gold earring with diamond and emerald, $550

What people, things, or movements inspire your designs? 

My grandma was a huge inspiration. She had a pinky ring that lives rent free in my mind. I would love to recreate it, but it was so particular...I wouldn't be able to recreate it.

Does your family have a professional history in jewelry? 

Jewelry tends to be a family business because it's an industry that's difficult to make connections in. [Much of the business transactions are] based on trust, so it's a very closed space. In my case, I'm a first generation jeweler, but I do see my 9-year-old niece interested. Hopefully I can pass this down.

Flush-set 14k gold and diamond bracelet, $8,000

Cat Claw necklace with cabochon-cut emerald, $34,000

Why do you think people love working with you on custom pieces?

Seventy percent of my business is custom. It's incredible to me how much people enjoy this process. I think part of the reason it has grown so much is because it's a great outlet for creativity for them. I really encourage customers to ask for adjustments, and those adjustments come directly from their creativity...allowing them to explore is really exciting and feels therapeutic. 

See Jonne Amaya's full collection here